Details!
Here is a little aspect of bespoke clothing that is usually ‘under the hood’, but it is a nice illustration of exactly how much attention and care goes into the making of bespoke. Above, you see two pictures of the pocket on a Ready-To-Wear coat. The image on the left is an empty pocket, on the right, I put my keys in it. You see how unsightly it opens up? There is a very simple trick to avoid this, but somehow my brothers in the Ready-To-Wear industry don’t know about it…
Have a look at these pictures: It is the front of a lovely and thin cool wool jacket that I’m working on at the moment. The picture on the left is again empty, on the right, my keys are in it. Hardly a difference! Of course, you will always see that there is a phone in a pocket, or keys, sigarettes or whatever. But it doesn’t have to open up and look ugly! Now what is my trick? I’ll show you:
On the left, you see the pocket, half-finished. Notice the horizontal line halfway on the white fabric? It’s an extra fold, a sort of harmonica. On the right you see what this is for: When I put my keys in the pocket, the harmonica opens up, allowing some extra space in the pocket. This is why my pockets never open up: there is nothing pulling the pocket down, because the harmonica acts as a buffer. Neat, hm? 
Afterthought: What I can’t figure out is this: To make this extra fold takes 5 seconds. Maybe ten. To leave this fold out is seriously less beautiful once the coat is finished. So a factory could increase the beauty of its product with a small investment, and yet, Ready-To-Wear coats very rarely have this tiny feature. This is the thing that makes me so partial to bespoke: We do not make concessions: not to fit, not to quality, and not to the refinement of the finishing either. Many good details make a better total. Check back soon, I’ll be posting more like this…
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