Enough about me, lets talk suits
Someone I respect and who’s opinion I value greatly, mentioned to me a few days ago that after reading my blog, he came away with the impression that it is all rather self-absorbed. Lot’s of me-me-me. Funny thing, the abbot in my monastery used to tell me the same thing about myself. Guess I didn’t learn much in those years. Oops, here I go again, talking about myself.
Anyway, I’ve been giving this some thought, and I agree with him, therefore Martin Stall Bespoke is going on a new course: Under the motto: Enough about me, let’s talk suits, and without further ado:
A trouser pattern on a length of cloth. Alas, the poor cutter has not enough cloth to fit it all on, or does he? You will see the little point of the pattern on the left sticking out over the edge of the cloth. Normally, in this case, it is a matter of rearranging the pattern pieces so as to create space. But this will use up more of the cloth. That is a loss, isn’t it? So, to economise, many professionals cut along the pink line you see there. They cut off the little wedge-shaped piece on the left. Then they cut a seperate wedge, and they stitch it on. Happens all the time, and has gotten to be quite acceptable. Not that it’s wrong, or ‘not-done’. And then you gain, when cutting, some 10 to 15 percent of cloth length. Admittedly, sometimes it can’t be avoided, depending on the customer’s circumference. But it should be avoided, when the only reason to do it, is to economize.
This is how it looks once it’s finished. Please excuse me for the fact that it’s just a stiched-up model, it is only for illustration purposes. Note the groin area where you see the little wedge.
Here is a close-up of the same thing. You can see the triangular, or wedge-shaped insert. I guess I won’t have to tell you that I don’t make my trousers like that.
Instead, and the only exception I will make is when it would otherwise cost unreasonable extra amounts of cloth, they look like this. Always.
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