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Visit to Paris next weekend

Written on January 30, 2007. Written by admin.

As I mentioned earlier, I was asked to come over to Paris not long ago. What I didn’t mention is that it was an invitation from the esteemed mr Michael Alden, founder of the excellent website The London Lounge. Some of my readers may already know this site, but for those of you who [...]

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Martin à Paris!

Written on January 29, 2007. Written by admin.

Messieurs,
J’ai l’honneur de vous informer que j’ai reçu une invitation très cordiale de la part de mr. Michael Alden, qui, comme vous savez sans doute, est le créateur du site web “The London Lounge”.
Ce site (en anglais) permet aux “gentlemens” de communiquer des sujets concernant la haute couture, ainsi que des chaussures fait [...]

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Tools: needles

Written on January 29, 2007. Written by admin.

Someone asked in the comment section what type of needles I use. Here they are: Nr 9 needles, only kind I use, in general. I might use extra long needles for basting very thick cloth, but basically I can do anything from handpicking to basting to felling to padding with these sharps.

They look old, don’t [...]

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Tools: Edge press and banger

Written on January 25, 2007. Written by admin.

One of the tools that I really like to use is what we call a ‘Kantenpers’ in Dutch. I don’t actually know the english term for it, but it translates as: Edge-press. Here’s a pic:

As you can see, it is similar in shape to the front of a coat. This means that it makes it [...]

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How to make a bespoke coat. Part 2

Written on January 24, 2007. Written by admin.

After drafting the pattern it is placed on the cloth. We have to make sure that the cloth is used as efficiently as possible so as not to waste any of it with a “bad lay”.

There are some inlays which we use. Some of these are for the purpose of corrections during the fitting. [...]

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How to make a bespoke coat, for real. Part 1.

Written on January 23, 2007. Written by admin.

Sometimes, people ask me why a bespoke suit costs so much money. Well, in my case, it isn’t because of the grandeur of my name, or the wood panels on the wall of my shop. I have no shop, I work at home, and I don’t have a grand name either. I’m just a regular [...]

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The best suits in the world?

Written on January 15, 2007. Written by admin.

There are some tailors who claim that they make the best suits in the world. And honestly, I do suppose that they do. I’ve seen some of it, and I would not dispute.
There are probably some readers, who believe that the next thing that I’m going to say, is that I too make the best [...]

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Survival of the luckiest

Written on January 9, 2007. Written by admin.

How lucky can a man be? The last week has been enormously magnificent. Some of you know that I used to be a fervent sailor in the days before the monastery, and I was totally thrilled when Biomiko invited me to join him on the trip from Danzig to Copenhagen. It wasn’t his first time [...]

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