How to make a bespoke coat, for real. Part 1.
Sometimes, people ask me why a bespoke suit costs so much money. Well, in my case, it isn’t because of the grandeur of my name, or the wood panels on the wall of my shop. I have no shop, I work at home, and I don’t have a grand name either. I’m just a regular guy who does his best to make the best. And this is how we get to the prices.
To make a bespoke suit, a tailor has to go through a number of steps. 220 steps, to be exact. Well, I don’t know if that is exact, I never counted. It might be 235, it might be 210. But that is the kind of amount you should think of. And each of these steps should be done well, because once you start saving time, all this little nibbling at quality will add up, and the total outcome will be less.
So I thought it would be nice to actually list all the steps that go into a coat.
First off, drafting a pattern.
A pattern for a coat. From left to right: Back, middle part, front.
Yes, it says Ego on the back, that’s how I indenitfy patterns for myself. A remnant of my monastic years, I guess. In any case, the first step is taking the measurements and drafting a pattern.
That means, when a new client comes, or when an exisiting client wants a suit in a different style, we cut a new pattern. Unique to that person. So we do not adjust an existing industry pattern, we literally start from scratch. After all, it’s bespoke, isn’t it?
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