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Bespoke Tailoring

Posted by: Martin Stall on 03/08/2010

Nice Trousers

Lovely woolen flannel trousers

In case you weren’t aware of it, I also make bespoke clothing for women.

This young lady is the daughter of a Dutch client of mine. She came over to visit her mum and complained of having trouble finding trousers that fit properly. In her own words: “I studied in America for a year, and now my behind is big.”

[EDIT: I just received an email from a reader who was upset about the above remark regarding culture and diet. Please know that I mean no insult, offence or judgement in any way. They were her words and I only included them in this story because I found it an amusing thing for her to say about herself.]

I’m not about to get into a discussion about diet and/or culture, but I can well imagine that she isn’t satisfied with the choices available to her in the RTW industry. If  trousers need to fit around the hips while the waist is small (as you can see, she has a lovely figure) then the waistband will always be loose around the waist.

This is the great benefit of working with a tailor. Not only can you get the design and cloth and style that you like, you can also have the cut compliment your figure. You can hide or obscure, or emphasize, all depending on the look you are after.

A small detail I worked in was a hidden pocket. She’s used to carrying her phone in her pocket, but I felt it would be better not to have pockets since that would draw attention to the hips, which is exactly what she wanted to avoid. So I made a pocket in the waistband. It opens from the top between the waistband and the waistband lining, and the pocket bag hides behind the pleat so there is no bulge on the side of the hips. Clever, eh?

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  1. Carol August 5, 2010 4:16 AM

    Very clever. I’m glad t see you’re posting a bit more regularly.

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