Anyone in Paris care for a suit?
I’ve been asked by a certain very reputable conoisseur of Bespoke suits to come over to Paris. And I think that is just great, because i’ve never been there. I understand there are many people overthere who appreciate a severely good suit, so if anyone of you is reading this, please drop me a line. [...]
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Adventures…
This is my ship: Well, it’s not my ship at all, really, but I’m sailing on it tomorrow, so it already feels like my ship. This ship is called Zawisza Czarny, which means the Black Knight. It’s a schooner built in 1901 and I’m happy as a monkey with a peanut machine to go and [...]
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Bespoke tailors driven out of business by computers? I don’t think so… (The whole story)
One cannot really speak of “the” difference between machine-cut suits and those cut by a human cutter. The difference is either huge or it doesn’t really exist, depending on one’s point of view. If a bespoke suit is seen as a number of dimensional figures and some cloth-technical elements, coupled to the wishes that the [...]
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Bespoke tailors driven out of business by computers? I don’t think so…
A couple of days ago, I received an email from a student in The Netherlands, where I am currently based. In it, he asked me an interesting question. So I wrote him a reply, and that kind of turned into an epistle of sorts. The original message and my reply are available below for you [...]
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Blog Maintenance
This week, the software that powers my blog has been updated. On the one hand I'm quite happy with this, because it will allow me to manage the thing much more efficiently. And if you've been here before, you have probably noticed that martinstall.com was in dire need of some serious maintenance and management. On [...]
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Buttonholes on the sleeves
It is notoriously hard to define bespoke. There used to be certain elements by which you could immediately identify bespoke, and these definitions held up until some ten or fifteen years ago. Around that time, large-scale clothing producers started en masse to use particular traits of the classic bespoke art in their suits. Things that [...]
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Itinerary
Currently I no longer travel abroad to visit customers. Since moving to Spain, I have been focusing more and more on local customers. I like travelling, but it’s disruptive to my workflow. It would be different if I had tailors working for, or with, me, but this is not the case at the moment. Out [...]
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Changes… NYC visit postponed
Funny how life can be quite in the way of itself sometimes. During the last few weeks, things have been pretty hectic for me. A number of circumstances were not exactly in my favour, and there was a fair bit of stuff to sort out. Also the reason why I haven’t been bloggin much lately. [...]
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Dates confirmed for NYC 14/15 november
UPDATE: Circumstances have forced me to revise my planning for the next few months, leading to my NYC visit being postponed.I duly apologize to those people who have shown an interest in my work. For more info, please read the post just above. Thank you. My visit to New York City next month is confirmed. [...]
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Armholes: The dreaded scye!
Much talk goes on about something called scye, or armhole. This is an aspect of Bespoke coats that is extremely important, both for the comfort as well as for the appearance of the wearer. Please have a look at this photo: This is an old Ready-To-Wear coat of a well-known Italian producer that I’ve taken [...]
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