Martin à Paris!
Messieurs,
J’ai l’honneur de vous informer que j’ai reçu une invitation très cordiale de la part de mr. Michael Alden, qui, comme vous savez sans doute, est le créateur du site web “The London Lounge”.
Ce site (en anglais) permet aux “gentlemens” de communiquer des sujets concernant la haute couture, ainsi que des chaussures fait [...]
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Tools: needles
Someone asked in the comment section what type of needles I use. Here they are: Nr 9 needles, only kind I use, in general. I might use extra long needles for basting very thick cloth, but basically I can do anything from handpicking to basting to felling to padding with these sharps.
They look old, don’t [...]
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Tools: Edge press and banger
One of the tools that I really like to use is what we call a ‘Kantenpers’ in Dutch. I don’t actually know the english term for it, but it translates as: Edge-press. Here’s a pic:
As you can see, it is similar in shape to the front of a coat. This means that it makes it [...]
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How to make a bespoke coat. Part 2
After drafting the pattern it is placed on the cloth. We have to make sure that the cloth is used as efficiently as possible so as not to waste any of it with a “bad lay”.
There are some inlays which we use. Some of these are for the purpose of corrections during the fitting. [...]
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How to make a bespoke coat, for real. Part 1.
Sometimes, people ask me why a bespoke suit costs so much money. Well, in my case, it isn’t because of the grandeur of my name, or the wood panels on the wall of my shop. I have no shop, I work at home, and I don’t have a grand name either. I’m just a regular [...]
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The best suits in the world?
There are some tailors who claim that they make the best suits in the world. And honestly, I do suppose that they do. I’ve seen some of it, and I would not dispute.
There are probably some readers, who believe that the next thing that I’m going to say, is that I too make the best [...]
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Survival of the luckiest
How lucky can a man be? The last week has been enormously magnificent. Some of you know that I used to be a fervent sailor in the days before the monastery, and I was totally thrilled when Biomiko invited me to join him on the trip from Danzig to Copenhagen. It wasn’t his first time [...]
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Anyone in Paris care for a suit?
I’ve been asked by a certain very reputable conoisseur of Bespoke suits to come over to Paris. And I think that is just great, because i’ve never been there.
I understand there are many people overthere who appreciate a severely good suit, so if anyone of you is reading this, please drop me a line. [...]
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Adventures…
This is my ship:
Well, it’s not my ship at all, really, but I’m sailing on it tomorrow, so it already feels like my ship.
This ship is called Zawisza Czarny, which means the Black Knight. It’s a schooner built in 1901 and I’m happy as a monkey with a peanut machine to go and sail on [...]
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Bespoke tailors driven out of business by computers? I don’t think so… (The whole story)
One cannot really speak of “the” difference between machine-cut suits and those cut by a human cutter. The difference is either huge or it doesn’t really exist, depending on one’s point of view. If a bespoke suit is seen as a number of dimensional figures and some cloth-technical elements, coupled to the wishes that the [...]
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