Because they are quite, quite good.
Not that I want to boast, so please let me explain.
The thing is very simple. I am a tailor and a cutter, and I am totally crazy about my work. That implies that I am of the opinion that there is only one way to properly make a suit: By hand.
Yes. 80 % of the 60 to 80 hours that a suit requires should go into needling with a needle and thread. By hand.
I recently met a man who sells handmade suits, only there is only five hours of actual handwork in it. It’s made in a factory, and indeed, a part of the (crucial!) work of the coat is done by hand, namely the floating canvass. That’s a whole lot more than you will find a a Ready-To-Wear coat, but the truth is that this has become the new standard, and I consider that a sad thing. Not only because of the obvious impoverishment inflicted on a very beautiful and ancient art, but also because essentially, people are being swindled.
Harsh words, but I mean it. I exclude, of course, those sellers who are open and truthful about their product. People who will inform their customers that the suit they are buying is as handmade as efficiency allows, while still being made with economic efficiency in mind. Regrettably, not everyone is so honest. Often the actual sale is more important than the quality of the product.
Not so with Martin Stall Bespoke. I take pride in delivering the highest level of truly handmade, genuine bespoke . Not made-to-measure or semi-confection, but the real thing. Nothing wrong with made-to-measure, as long as people don’t try to sell it for something it isn’t.
So actually, the title of this post should be: “Why go to a Real Tailor?”, because I am not the only one who is making true bespoke. The point is that you should find someone who is doing what he says he does, who wants to know what you want.
And when you do find someone like that, ask him before you commit yourself to anything, these two questions: Does he use a floating canvass , and does he draft patterns anew for each client?
If so, you are very lucky to have found him, and you should put him in a box and keep him safe as long as you live: it’s a rare breed, and it’s dying out quickly. If he doesn’t make a floating canvass, and/or if he doesn’t draft from scratch: My advise is to thank him for his time and leave. If you’re looking for bespoke, you can do better for yourself.